“Italians love to talk about food. Video: Watch Italy's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Imagine calling spam exquisite...just add truffle. After a sculptor replaced them, locals dubbed her "Verona's Madonna.". You'll end up at Piazza Erbe, Verona's market square, where vendors come to slice and sell whatever's in season. The church feels alive with pilgrims from all corners. Why? Justinian brings together both military and church leaders — all united by the same vision. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Lovers of early-Renaissance art come to Padua just to gaze at the remarkable frescoes by Giotto in the Scrovegni Chapel. And Ravenna, with its shimmering mosaics, was once the western bastion of the Byzantine Empire. All creation swirls around Christ as the sacrificial lamb, supported by four angels. Woman: Mmm, true. With this masterpiece — created 200 years before Leonardo and Michelangelo — Giotto seems to be making it clear: Europe was breaking out of the Middle Ages. It's a multigenerational affair. Next up? Rick Steves is America's leading authority on European travel. They also offer a junior version at lunch for half the price: a pasta and your choice of salad or dessert. The former dancer who became his mistress, then empress, is decked out in jewels and pearls and carries a chalice to consecrate the new church. [It's good! Valeria: Brrrrravo! Friends gather around the new grad and the pranks begin. Besides eating, for me the highlight of Verona is the evening passeggiata (stroll). Despite the romantic fiction, the town is packed with genuine history. You can sit on a quiet street or in a plush little dining area inside. Guidebook author, TV & radio host, business owner, Lutheran, and NORML board member. His people, with their voluminous, deeply creased robes, are as sturdy and massive as Greek statues. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. Franklin: La mamma, OK. A two-hour train ride takes us through the lush Po River Valley, just south of the Veneto, to Ravenna. Terms of Service | Privacy, Verona, Italy: Ambience and a Grappa Taste Test, Verona, Italy: House of Juliet and Castelvecchio. Verona's market square is Piazza Erbe. Then came the best polenta I'd ever tasted, with anchovies. The Scaligeri castle evokes Verona's Golden Age, when the city was one of Europe's great economic powers. Its charming lanes are lined with 17 miles of porticos, which come in a variety of styles. The pilgrims believe Anthony is their protector, confidant, and intercessor. The scene has changed little over the centuries, as merchants artfully display their goods. Enoteca Cangrande is enthusiastically run by Giuliano and Corrina, who enjoy turning people on to great, well-matched food and wine. Appreciate the symmetry. ], ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | We'll see an ancient Roman arena in a modern urban setting, admire exquisite Byzantine mosaics, and make friends over a little grappa. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Considered too fragile to be seen by huge numbers of people, sights like this are open only to a limited number of visitors who make a reservation in advance. Rick: So it goes back to your childhood. The main drag leads to one of the most important pilgrimage churches in all of Europe: the Basilica of St. Anthony. Rick Steves » In Italy, ‘A Good Restaurant Should Come With a Bed’ Rick Steves: On a great meal -- and an even better dinner conversation -- in Verona, Italy Their gestures are simple but expressive: Arm raised shows anger, head tilted down says dejection, arms flung out indicate anguish, and a tender kiss? The well-preserved amphitheater — the third largest in the Roman world — dates from the first century AD and still retains most of its original stone. The art is an intricate ensemble of images that, with the help of a medieval priest, would teach volumes. For a better love life. This is the time when, traditionally, students gather to enjoy the ritual of the aperitivo, lubricated by a spritz…or three. With 60,000 students, Padova's university is always lively, and you're likely to stumble onto some kind of spirited school event. Because ancient Romans considered Verona an ideal resting spot before crossing the Alps, the city has a wealth of Roman ruins. Italians love to talk about food. Early in the evening the stalls are gone and the piazzas become community gathering places. A fountain has bubbled here for 2,000 years. And within these historic lecture halls is Europe's oldest surviving anatomy theater, from the late 1500s. Chafing under Venetian rule for four centuries seemed only to sharpen Padova's independent spirit. I don't know if all of this love is related to the Romeo and Juliet hype — or if it's just the natural high that comes from living in such a joyful and connected place. We stayed at the Giulietta y Romeo Hotel - a few steps away from the Roman Arena and an easy walk from the train station. Browse and sample and clown around with Oreste. It’s in their DNA.”From time to time, we share a random video clip to fuel your travel dreams. Just as the Medici family ruled Florence, this castle is a reminder that the Scaligeri family ran the city of Verona back in the 14th century. Floating above the arch, two angels hold rays of sun. As pilgrims have done for centuries, visitors marvel. Rick Steves' My Way Tour-2: Home Venice Verona Lake Como The Cinque Terre Florence Siena Assisi Rome Epilogue - More than a Vacation Our Verona Highlights “Travel makes one modest. Corso Porta Borsari was the main drag of Roman Verona. It was exquisite. Join us today as we sit down for a delicious meal at a classic little mom-and-pop restaurant in Verona, Italy.Watch my complete TV episode about Italy’s V Over the centuries, crowds of up to 25,000 spectators have filled this place: cheering Roman gladiator battles, medieval executions, and modern plays — including Verona's popular summer opera festival. Rick: Not too much. People have gathered here since Roman times, when this was a forum. Franklin: Not really. The indoor market, featuring various butchers and cheese shops, is a sensuous experience as well. Since medieval times shoppers have come here for the best Veneto produce. Standing here, we can witness a culture suddenly lurching forward out of antiquity and into the Middle Ages. Ravenna is a charming if underwhelming town of 140,000 with a fascinating history, and some of Italy's most amazing art treasures. The city is so famous for love that it gets countless letters addressed simply to "Juliet, Verona, Italy." All: Exactly, of course, of course. Italy's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna. Posted on April 22, 2007 December 2, 2013 by Rick Steves Stars Not Crossed in Today’s Verona Last night I was in Verona, strolling after dinner through a multigenerational sea of people on a wide sidewalk promenade. Medieval Italian cities were often dominated by a single powerful family. This funky wine-and-grappa bar is still run by Oreste (with his Chicagoan wife, Beverly) like a 1970s, old-style enoteca. I loved the Roman ruins and marble sidewalks. A modest dress code is enforced. Explore Europe with Rick Steves' travel guide to the best destinations and recommended sights, things to do, tips, and videos along with much more travel information. These frescoes are considered by many to be a precursor of the Renaissance to come. Calmly isolated from the action is Enrico Scrovegni, who paid for all this art in an attempt to gain forgiveness for the sins of his wealthy and greedy father. RICK STEVES ’ EUROPE: Italy’s Veneto: Verona, Padua And Ravenna Airs Saturday, Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 10:30 p.m. on KPBS TV + PBS Video App Thursday, April 23, 2020 Woman: Aperitivo, you know? Facing the emperor is his wife Theodora and her entourage. After spritzing, it's time for feasting. Everywhere you look there are memories of illustrious alumni and professors. Each face is a study in grief. Giuliano is serving us an array of plates. For instance, this image of Christ is beardless — the style of the ancient Romans, and nearby is the standard medieval portrayal of a bearded Jesus. Sooner or later, those wandering Verona's streets will be flushed into a very crowded courtyard. "Even if we do not talk," said Franklin, "with these cheeses we have a good conversation." Christ oversees the action as the saved, on his right, emerge grateful from their graves…and the damned, on his left, are just kicking off a hellish eternity. The gang presents a giant poster with a generally crude caricature of the graduate, and a list of embarrassing personal stories for all to see. Get the most out of every day and dollar with Rick Steves Italy guidebooks, Snapshot guides and Pocket travel guides Giancarlo: È buono! Valeria: La grappa aiuta faca de amici. In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities. A guy on a bike pedals gracefully by, his girlfriend sitting on the handlebars embracing him. And Verona has its share of excellent eateries. Do you want to drop by before I go home and have a bite to eat?" Rick: Oreste helps you make friends. Giotto, considered the first modern painter, painted scenes that were more realistic and human than anything that had been done for a thousand years. About two hours from bustling Milan and touristy Venice is Verona — a welcome sip of pure, easygoing Italy. As the cannelloni with fontina and duck ravioli with Amarone arrive, we learn that even in a fine restaurant like this, diners have a higher standard than you'd expect: la mamma. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Padova and Verona are just minutes apart on the main Venice-to-Milan train line. That's — that's the answer to everything. It would be like being at La Fenice, the opera, first row, and being in bad company, someone who doesn't appreciate opera music and would prefer rock music, let's say. As I held the warm and happy tire of my full tummy, I thought about how Italians live life with abandon — and how they enjoy their food. We were met just outside the old city wall by our local guide, Valeria, who skillfully took us through this ancient Roman city. Made famous by Shakespeare's star-crossed lovers, Verona is Italy's fourth-most-visited city and second in the Veneto region only to Venice in population and artistic importance. In its heyday the island of Venice ruled a huge empire, and that included a good part of the Italian mainland — a region called the "Veneto." As it turns out, anchovies and polenta are a "good marriage." The artichokes are in season, and I'm working up an appetite in the north of Italy: It's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna. ; remnants of its 14th-century boom time; and its 21st-century quiet, pedestrian-only ambience. Gracing the high altar are a group of bronze statues by the Renaissance master Donatello — the Crucifixion and Mary, with Padova's favorite saints. 4:24. Woman: Yes, it's always like, you know, you're going back home, and you come here, and you look around, and you always see your friends. Enroute to our next destination, we stopped midday in the. Votives from the faithful ask for help, or give thanks for miracles they believe he's performed. Today Piazza Erbe is for the locals, who start their evening with an aperitivo here. (photo: Rick Steves) Verona's Roman arena is an impressive sight, with much of the stonework still intact. And, by building their tombs on pillars, they made sure they'd be looked up to…even in death. It's a trendy scene, as young Veronans fill the bars to enjoy their refreshing spritz drinks, olives, and chips. It's in their DNA. Next stop: Verona. A stroll here makes for a fun, ancient scavenger hunt. centuries old town of VERONA. That's very trendy, I think. In italiano? Giotto's storytelling style is straightforward, and anyone with a knowledge of the Bible can read the chapel like a picture book. Padova ("Padua" in English) is famed for its venerable university, precious Giotto frescoes, and pilgrim-packed Basilica. For dessert: a plate of voluptuous slices of cheese. Is this part of…
Bebita! You see the color is different, OK, so it's basically — this is with Aperol, which is lighter, and that one is with Campari, and then you put a slice of orange, usually ice and white wine, or sparkling wine, and a bit of water also. In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities. And what's with this whale's rib? Rick Steves, Edmonds, Washington. May 15, 2019 - Rick Steves' Europe Travel Guide | In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities in the Veneto area. A unique ritual is the post-graduation roast. Behind the high altar, pilgrims visit the relics of the saint — considered miraculously preserved: his vocal chords, tongue, and jawbone. Hotel Verona is convenient as it is a short walk from the train station. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Italy stretches, like Europe's boot, into the Mediterranean Sea. Rick: Do you talk about the food as you eat it? You never forget her." 598K likes. At the top of the arch, the circle with the monogram of Christ (I for Jesus and X for Christ) symbolizes perfection and eternity. By placing their hand on his tomb while saying a silent prayer, pilgrims show devotion to Anthony and feel the saint's presence. And they're getting even busier, thanks to the movie Letters to Juliet, about a girl (Amanda Seyfried) who finds a letter while visiting the House of Juliet and travels through Italy to help reunite the author with her lost love. Naples, Italy: The Birthplace of Pizza We might get drunk, but...not bored. His church of San Vitale stands as a sanctuary of order in the midst of all that chaos. Man: You always see somebody. Florence, Italy: Church of San Miniato and Piazzale Michelangelo I'm popping into a wine bar to learn about grappa. Padova's old town, even when crowded with today's students, has a colonnaded Old World elegance. We're starting here in Padova. Rick: A little bit. Construction of this impressive Romanesque/Gothic church (with its Byzantine-style domes) started immediately after St. Anthony's death in 1231. Mthe walk back and forth into the city takes you along a busy street. And in springtime, there's lots of work for the man who preps the artichokes. This special episode is a sonnet to travel - an introspective love story, set in Europe, that vividly celebrates the rewards of exploring our world and the joy that awaits those who travel. see our FAQ. Its main attractions are its wealth of Roman ruins — like this bridge, dating from the first century B.C. People have gathered here since Roman times, when this was a forum, or market. High above the altar, Christ is in heaven — sitting on a celestial orb — overseeing creation, symbolized by the green earth below his feet. This well-preserved arena — the fourth largest in the Roman world — is a popular venue for events even today. (If you'll be staying overnight in Padua or parking a car, consider paying a little extra for a Padova Card). Stalls and shops are often family-run, and the lineage of some of these merchants stretches back centuries. Finally, there's the playful send off, like a rude birthing into the real world. Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet made Verona a household word — and this is supposedly Juliet's balcony. I hope you've enjoyed our look at three delightful cities in the north of Italy: Ravenna, Padova, and Verona. And it remains a market to this day. Their star offering is a set menu that's a festival of antipasti treats, an imaginative pasta, your choice of a meat or fish course, and dessert. However, it is inaccurate to assume him as gay as he is a proud father of two grown-up children. One of Christianity's the most popular shrines to one of the most popular saints, the basilica was begun a year after Anthony died, in 1232, and is filled with magnificent art. Franklin: Italian men who adore cooking will always refer to "la mamma," their mother. Eggplant parmigiana and burrata from Puglia. Remnants of the town's illustrious past — chips of Roman columns, medieval reliefs, fine old facades, and fossils in marble — are scattered among modern-day fancy shop windows. 2:17. The wall of padlocks is a popular fad, enabling lovers to prove that their hearts are eternally locked up. A woman tells me that her husband is her mezza mela — half an apple. Rick: You come to the piazza, and you know you're gonna find friends. Nicknamed "the brain of the Veneto," it was founded in 1222, one of the first in Europe. Even amid a pandemic that has hit the travel industry hard, Steves … Around him, demons torture the damned in a scene right out of The Inferno by Dante...who happened to be Giotto's friend. Verona, Italy: Joy of the Veneto by Rick Steves' Europe. Ancient Romans considered Verona an ideal last stop before heading north over the Alps. So much sightseeing greatness awaits discovery in Europe's second-tier cities. But, alas, a visit here has nothing to do with those two star-crossed lovers, and Juliet never lived in this house. Back then, medical students would pack these steep balconies to watch professors dissect human cadavers. It's fun to observe the scene, knowing that all this commotion was started by a clever tour guide back in the '70s as a way to attract visitors to Verona. Climb to the top and imagine the spectacles this arena has hosted for over 2,000 years. Friar Anthony of Padua, "Christ's perfect follower and a tireless preacher of the Gospel," is buried here. The tiny, admittedly romantic courtyard is a spectacle in itself, with visitors from all over the world posing on the almost believable balcony and taking snapshots of each other rubbing Juliet's bronze breast, hoping to get lucky in love. The ceiling above is a festive celebration of God's creation, with 80 different birds from the sixth century — most still flying around Ravenna today. Locals can tell the month by the seasonal selections — strawberries and white asparagus? We'll marvel at precious Giotto frescoes, join pilgrims at the tomb of St. Anthony, and celebrate an irreverent university graduation. With much of the charm and far fewer crowds, you could call this part of Italy "sotto-estimato" — under-estimated. Right now, my love story is all about food, and I'm joining local friends for dinner at Enoteca Can Grande. We don't say, "Oh, my god, we're going to go have an aperitivo, it's going to be a fun night," we're just like, "Hey, I'm in Piazza dei Signori. Until next time, keep on travelin'. And the side chapel containing St. Anthony's tomb is a Renaissance masterpiece from 1500. For nearly 800 years pilgrims have flocked here to venerate the tomb of St. Anthony of Padova. Ciao. Padova's Scrovegni Chapel, with its precious 14th-century Giotto frescoes, is one of Italy's most beloved art treasures. Exploring a region called the Veneto, we'll visit Padova and Verona before finishing in Ravenna. Speedy. It's April. Rick Steves with family (Photo: Pinterest) Because of his unsuccessful marriage, his fans professed him as gay. Imagine: It's the year 500 A.D. This is the perfect opportunity for a traveler to grab a drink, strike up a conversation, and become part of the scene. The mortadella (Italian-style baloney — not a high-end meat) was served with black truffle. ", The Venetian lion has hovered over this square since 1405, when it reminded locals they were ruled by Venice. While you'll probably see Venice first, don't overlook the gems of the mainland nearby: its distinctive cuisine, its history and sumptuous art, and its people — embracing today with classic Italian flair. And finally, beef cheeks stewed in Amarone with polenta, just as la mamma made it. To protect the paintings from excess humidity, only 25 people are allowed in the chapel at a time, and prepaid reservations are required — it's wise to reserve at least two days in advance. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Then friends sing the catchy but obscene local university anthem, reminding their newly esteemed friend not to get too stuffy. John the Evangelist spreads his arms wide and shrieks, his cries echoed by anguished angels above. Franklin: Absolutely, yes, sure. YouTube Stats Summary / User Statistics for Rick Steves' Europe (2020-12-26 - 2021-01-08) Posted on May 9, 2012 December 6, 2016 by Rick Steves Hit the Ground Running in Verona A fundamental skill for travelers is simply getting around efficiently and economically using public transit. Wallpapered with Giotto's beautifully preserved cycle of frescoes, the glorious chapel — painted in about the year 1300 — depicts the lives of Jesus and Mary. Whatever your favorite drink, everyone — including tourists — is welcome to enjoy this convivial Italian ritual. Apparently, when soul mates find each other in Italy, it makes the apple whole. Yet the Eastern half of the empire, ruled from dazzling Constantinople (present-day Istanbul), has morphed into Byzantium, and becomes the pinnacle of civilization. Rick: So it's the leftover material after the wine process. Cheers. I'm Rick Steves. Thanks for joining us. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” ― Gustave Flaubert. To la mamma. Medieval Italian cities were often dominated by a single powerful family. Four hundred years ago, the great scientist Galileo — notorious for disagreeing with the Church's views on science — enjoyed that academic freedom. We enliven each stop with a tasty dose of Italian dolce vita. This remarkable theater is an example of the importance placed on science during the Renaissance. It wouldn't be the right thing. But you're still just a BEEP...go BEEP yourself, go BEEP yourself!"). Rick: Oreste helps you make friends. And for nearly 800 years, his remains and this glorious church have attracted pilgrims to Padua. Ravenna is on the tourist map for one reason: its 1,500-year-old churches, decorated with best-in-the-West Byzantine mosaics. As you wander, appreciate the Italian passion for good food: Merchants share recipe tips with shoppers. To go to a restaurant is wonderful, but how la mamma cooked, no one, nobody can equal that. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe. Getting around this part of Italy is easy. Venice: City of Dreams - Video - Rick Steves' Europe For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . Over the centuries, crowds of up to 25,000 spectators have cheered Roman gladiator battles, medieval executions, and modern plays — including Verona's popular summer opera festival, which takes advantage of the arena's famous acoustics. Verona, at the base of the Alps and nestled in a bend of the Adige River, is another leading city in the Veneto. After a lifetime of exploring Europe - and inspiring Americans to see Europe as the springboard for world exploration - Rick Steves shares his reasons why. And, if Romeo and Juliet had existed and were still alive, they'd recognize much of their "hometown.". Valeria: Grappa is made out of seeds, skins, and stems of the wine. Travel information for Europe's best destinations across 25+ countries. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Venice, Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. And running things here on earth is Emperor Justinian — sporting both a halo and a crown to show he's leader of both the Church and the state. Can you imagine having the beautiful food with no beautiful wine? Valeria: The more the aging, the smoother it gets. This was allowed by the government and Church as long as the cadavers were convicted foreign criminals. 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